Interior Door Painting

Door Painting

When door painting makes sense.

• Modernizing oak or stained doors — the biggest single visual upgrade in most homes after wall color.
• Move-in refresh — taking dated builder doors to white, charcoal, or a bold accent color before furniture arrives.
• Sale prep — repainting scratched and scuffed doors to a clean factory finish lifts every listing photo.
• Going bold on interior doors — white trim with black, sage, or deep navy doors for a contemporary look.
• New construction touch-up — finishing builder-supplied doors to a higher standard than factory-applied.
• Closet, barn, and pantry doors — high-visibility doors that wear differently than passage doors.

Door Painting

Our interior door painting process.

1. Initial Consultation — We collect details on each door — count, type (panel/flat/closet/barn), current finish (painted or stained), and target color. Custom-formula pricing built per project, estimate sent within 24 hours, and we schedule a pickup once approved.
2. Pickup and Inspection — We come to your home, take the doors off the hinges, label and load them carefully, and transport them back to our Littleton shop. Hardware removed and labeled. Hinges left in place on the jambs so the openings stay protected.
3. Prep at the Shop — Painted doors: cleaned and sanded smooth. Stained doors: heavily sanded from 40 grit up through 220, with red glazing Bondo filling any flaws. Wiped clean so nothing's left to ghost through the finish.
4. Primer & Topcoat (Sprayed) — Stained doors get BIN Shellac primer to block tannin and stain bleed-through. Painted doors get a bonding primer where needed. Then two sprayed coats of Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in your color — matte, satin, or semi-gloss.
5. Final Check, Cure, and Re-Hang — Doors inspected under good light for any imperfections, then left to dry until they're ready to handle and transport — typically 24 hours or less (the urethane keeps curing to full hardness over the following days). We bring them back, re-hang on the original hinges with your hardware re-installed, and check that every door swings and latches cleanly.

Door Painting

Why sprayed at the shop beats rolled at home.

A door isn't flat — it has two faces, edges, and panel detail. Rolled and brushed, you can see every stroke and the panel detail catches drips. Sprayed in a climate-controlled paint booth, the finish lies down like glass, the panels fill cleanly, and the cure happens in a dust-free environment. The result is a door that looks like it came from a factory, not a job site. The extra step of removing the doors and processing them off-site is exactly why we invested in a warehouse and paint booth in Littleton — so we could offer this level of finish without compromise.

• Climate-controlled booth — no dust, no temperature swings, no humidity surprises.
• Sprayed, not rolled — no roller stipple, no brush marks, just an even factory finish.
• Faces and edges done right — both faces and the edges that show, sprayed evenly.
• Proper dry time built in — dry enough to handle and transport in 24 hours or less, then it keeps curing to full hardness.

Door Painting

From stained wood to painted doors.

The trickiest transformation is taking a previously stained interior door (most often oak, sometimes maple or cherry) and painting it. Stain and tannins in the wood will bleed through a standard primer and yellow the topcoat within months — which is why so many DIY oak-to-white door projects fail. We solve it with BIN Shellac, a shellac-based primer that completely blocks tannin migration. Combined with progressive 40-to-220 grit sanding to break the original sheen and smooth the grain, the result is a painted door indistinguishable from a factory-painted one. The same approach works on stained trim, balusters, and built-ins when those are part of the project.